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... start to stick to one another due to van der WAals forces. This is why powders don't behave exactly like sands do. I have used pure baking soda - it works, and produces great detail - but just doesn't look as nice (IMO). This particle size boundary limits smooth rolling of smaller balls (ball:particle size ratio is too Low - the ball gets "stuck" and deflected by the particles). Again, it's not a functional limitation - I have used ~1/8" diam. BB's, and they "work" just fine - but they move jerkily. If your goal is to to a picture of a completed track that ...

... a big battery or charge it frequently if you converted it to use a battery. If you do think about adding a battery, a good source might be the ones for motorized recliners. We added one of those to a recliner that we didn't WAnt a cord running to, and it only needs to be charged once every few weeks. But it's as big as a kid's shoe. There is room under the Sisyphus, so it might be possible. The transformer puts out 12VDC (at 4A). Also note that the upcoming Sisyphus Mini will have a rechargeable battery option. 2. I've never oiled mine, and I've never remo ...

... be run and a "power brick" won't be unceremoniously sitting on the side of the WAll. I purchased a cord protector like I had for other items that run a cord a distance from a WAll outlet for the Sisyphus but the ferromagnet in the middle has to be forced into the protector, and leaves a hump, which I don't expect to be a problem, but you get my point. Thanks! PS: As a further idea, have the power plug be one of those "Low Profile" plugs that point down instead of out, i.e. Attachment : IMG_1494.jpg

Glad to hear you're still enjoying your Sisyphus! Alas, we discontinued "2-ball mode" a while back. Though I loved the option from both an Aesthetic and math / engineering perspective, it became too much of a headache in terms of support.

Does anyone have a good solution to hide the cable ? There are cable hiders out there, but I don't find them to be very Aesthetic.

@heropup- Trying other shaped "boulders" is fine, but be sure they don't have sharp edges, which could scratch the "sand pan". I've tried a few things, but nothing comes anywhere close to a sphere Aesthetically (IMO). I sometimes use a BB when I WAnt to draw something that needs detailed lines (like text) and I WAnt a photo of the completed track. But because of the relative increase in size of the particles (compared to the ball), the smaller the ball the less smoothly it rolls. Another interesting possibility is to change the shape of the object pushing ...

In addtion to heropups excellent reply - if you do notice the middle getting a little shy in the sand department, you can of course remove the glass and brush sand from the "terminal berm" (hill of sand around the periphery). But alternatively, a more elegant solution is to create a playlist consisting of two tracks: "e10" followed by "apache". Run the playlist in order (not shuffled), with repeat on, and let it go all day (or over night). You should find after repeated runnings, that there is a net increase of sand in the center.

I noticed that my Sola3 track on the 22” table (see attached photo) is lacking definition in the center. Is this because there is not currently enough sand to make larger ridges? Attachment : A11CF9F5-13CD-4ADC-9000-6E69C6BA84D7.jpeg

Thanks very much for posting your findings! Super interesting. As for the iron contamination - you can use the ball itself to collect it - when it has grown iron filing "sideburns", gently dab them with a wet paper towel to coax the filings off the ball while it is couple to the magnet (or the filings will drop off into the sand). Repeat this cycle of running / iron dabbing until the iron is gone. The increased detail is pretty amazing - but for me, the cost is too high in Aesthetic terms of it not looking like sand dunes. This fits with my current understanding that there is a physical limit to how small the particles can be, beyond which they no longer behave like sand.

... is a net increase of sand in the center. Thank you both. I must have forgotten to subscribe and am only just now seeing these replies. I knew the tracks got scaled for the different sized tables and WAsn't sure if it WAs a detail issue or a sand issue. Bruce - I did notice a return of sand to the middle with certain tracks. It would be great to have your suggested track order in the FAQs to accomplish it. Andy

There's only so much detail that can be drawn for a particular grain size of sand. Since all tables regardless of diameter use the same sand, and the paths are scaled to fit a table's drawing field, the larger the table, the more apparent detail can be seen in a track as a whole. In the center of some tracks, the details get finer and finer until the sand is too coarse to resolve them. If you were to take a picture of, say, the central 2 inches of the track drawn, it would show roughly the same amount of detail for the same ball size and amount of sand, regardless of the size of the table. But the features are proportionally larger for a larger table (e.g., the spacing between overlapping paths). For instance, if I take a picture of seash5 drawn on my 22" end table, and I take a picture of the same track drawn on the 36" coffee table, such that the entire design just fits inside the frame of the photo, then when comparing the two images, the latter will appear to have finer sand and finer details; but if I take both pictures from the same distance from the glass, the sand will have the same apparent size and the same detail, but the path on the larger table will be magnified compared to the smaller table. Unless there isn't enough sand to draw a path, if you add more sand to the center, what will happen is that the ball will just push it around and leave virtually the same amount of sand behind. If you use a smaller ball, you'll see a little more detail since the ball won't flatten the sand as much (it draws a narrower path with less overlap). I would encourage experimenting with different ball sizes and amounts of sand. Another interesting possibility is to change the shape of the object pushing the sand--a cylinder, for example (like a hockey puck) might create a different effect than a ball.

I should post an update! I WAs able to use Blender to track the motion of the pendulum. I can even see their path data in my environment window! but i haven't the foggiest on how to export that path data as either XY info or as SVG data. My current plan of attack is to create an object in blender (that hopefully doesn't intersect) and export that. Then maybe I can add that to a fusion file and export STL to create the gcode. We'll see! This project is Low on the totem pole of priorities, so it may move forward slowly. Attachment :  Screen-Shot-2 ...

@rick-yeh This is definitely not normal function -- I will alert our support team, but also, please start a ticket so we can keep track of it: follow up: Support is already working with you (they suspect the dust is from the cardboard WAffle-board padding which we cut to size in our shop) and have relayed instructions for removing it and inspecting the Low-friction pad on the magnet for signs of wear or foreign material. Rest assured - we will make sure the problem is fixed!

After noticing that the berm WAs consistently higher and thicker on one side of the table, despite the addition of sand to the "low" side, I finally broke out the spirit level. After leveling the table, I find the berm is now uniform throughout. Conclusion: the sand behaves like an extremely viscous fluid. Maybe @Bruce knew this. Not me!

Low, I think the issue is that you need to touch on the "Edit" button (square w/ pencil) in the upper-right hand corner first. On the edit page is where the tracks can be reorganized. This edit page also shows you where connection lines would need to be added between tracks if played in sequential order. Hope that helps.

Do grandkids count? 🙂 I have pics of both my grandkids on and under the table on our Instagram grid. The glass is tempered, and virtually indestructible. The tables are too heavy for young kids to topple. And they run on Low-voltage, so are not an electrocution risk.

I'm trying to figure out how auto-brightness works. First, is it based on an ambient light sensor, time of day, what? And second, I notice that it doesn't disable the brightness slider. It seems to work in conjunction with it, but I can't figure out the exact design intent. If I move the slider to the very Low end, then enabling auto-brightness raises brightness a bit. If I move the slider to the very high end, then enabling auto-brightness dims the lighting it a bit. But for the majority of the slider positions in the middle, auto-brightness seems to have no effect at all.

The direction is reversed because your installation of your custom light strip is reversed relative to the direction that the board expects (e.g., clockwise if the board is expecting anti-clockwise). If you installed the NeoPixels strip on the same backing as the original strip (there is just enough space on the backing to do this), then it needed to be placed in the opposite orientation as the original strip, because once you flip over the backing so that the NeoPixels strip is on the top half, that reverses the orientation. In other words, if the original Sisyphus strip is installed anti-clockwise, then the NeoPixels strip needs to be installed clockwise on the same backing, then the entire backing is pulled out and flipped over so that the NeoPixels are now on top of the original strip. If you do not flip over the backing and leave the NeoPixels below the original strip, the illumination of the sand field will be uneven because the LEDs are mounted too Low.

... dune WAlls and greater detail. But I welcome people trying other particles and reporting their results. Some guidelines: Low iron contamination - any ferromagnetic impurities will stick to the ball, and although ball whiskers can be "interesting", it is not pleasing (IMO). White provides the best shadow contrasting. Finer is better, up to a point. Eventually, when particles of any kind get small enough, they become "sticky", due to van der WAals forces. Powder dunes don't look the same as sand dunes. Of course, all of this is subjective and it's fine to ...

Some time ago, I plugged in an Anker 5W wireless charger into one of the USB ports under the table, and I have not had any issues with it interfering with the function of the table. That said, the charging is extremely slow; not surprising given the Low WAttage of the charger. But my somewhat unscientific observations (I've not done any timed testing comparisons) is that it seems even slower than when the charger is plugged into a dedicated adapter. Based on this latest news, I think I'm going to unplug the charger from the table. I WAsn't even really u ...