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Search result for: WA 0812 2782 5310 Pusat Pembuatan Gerbang Pagar Stainless Terpercaya Sewon Bantul
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Brightness-- stainless vs black ring | 10 Relevance | 4 years ago | Patti | Table Usage | |
| I have a lot of Stainless steel furniture in my loft so when the limited edition Stainless side table became available I impulse bought it, rolled my eyes at myself, and then sold my black metal side table to a friend. As one does. Every time I WAlked past the new table I found myself thinking, "Wow, the lights are really bright!" I wondered if there were different LEDs on the table but then I realized that the Stainless steel ring is far more reflective than the black one WAs. WAs that the difference? "Hey Patti, tell me you're a nerd without telling m ... | |||||
| RE: Brightness-- stainless vs black ring | 6 Relevance | 4 years ago | Bruce | Table Usage | |
| @patti OK - but let me know if you change your mind. I've confirmed that the Stainless ring is the same size as the black. | |||||
| RE: Brightness-- stainless vs black ring | 6 Relevance | 4 years ago | Bruce | Table Usage | |
| @Patti - I get it - I don't WAnt things I like to change either, particularly with the Sisyphi in my home. Let me talk with the shop guys. If the Stainless ring is the same size (almost certain it is), we can ship you out a black ring for you to go back to. You could also try stacking them, but pretty sure it will be too high for the glass to sit properly. We also might be able to laser cut something thin and opaque. Will get back to you... | |||||
| RE: Brightness-- stainless vs black ring | 6 Relevance | 4 years ago | Patti | Table Usage | |
| @Bruce I imagine there are lots of complications as the size grows. Do you make the rings flat on the underside of enormous tables, or are they angled to direct the light farther? My side table is both subtle and not-subtle. The difference jumped out at me every time I WAlked past it, and I run the Stainless one at about 1/3 less brightness than I used for the black one. | |||||
| RE: Brightness-- stainless vs black ring | 6 Relevance | 4 years ago | Bruce | Table Usage | |
| ... is higher than the black finish of our regular rings. Though your pics show a difference, I would call it fairly subtle. On the small number of large scale installations I've done (3m in diameter), I made the LED shade ring from multiple pieces of wood that interlock around the entire 30+ feet of circumference, and painted the under-side white to increase the illumination. It's a long WAy to the center of those monsters! | |||||
| RE: Brightness-- stainless vs black ring | 5 Relevance | 4 years ago | Patti | Table Usage | |
| @bruce Oh, sorry, I WAs unclear. I'm not complaining! I'm observing, and thinking about WAys to play with the difference. If it bothered me then I'd cover one side of the ring in something black and not reflective. I might do that anyway just so I can switch between the two effects. | |||||
| RE: Ball Bearing Magnetic Properties | 3 Relevance | 5 years ago | Bruce | Table Customization | |
| @stevetheevans - not 100% sure that Home Depot's single bearings are not Stainless, but I doubt they'd carry Stainless (it's more expensive and less hard than carbon steels). But you can be absolutely sure if you just bring a small magnet with you next time you're shopping. BTW - you do not need 400-series Stainless. Regular shiny (polished) steel balls stay that WAy over long periods of time when running on Sisyphus. I assume the sand does the "cleaning." | |||||
| RE: Ball Bearing Magnetic Properties | 2 Relevance | 5 years ago | Bruce | Table Customization | |
| @stevetheevans - Pretty much any ferromagnetic object you place over the magnet will get pulled through the sand. Spheres are much nicer (IMO) because they roll (as opposed to skidding). As far as material, all non-stainless alloys ("carbon steels") will work, and you really don't need bearings that are high precision (closer to a perfect sphere) or hardened. And you're partially correct about Stainless - many alloys are very weakly attracted to a magnet (300-series) - but 400-series are ferromagnetic and work fine. Home Depot carries a small variety of single ball bearings in their specialty fastener section. | |||||
| Ball Bearing Magnetic Properties | 2 Relevance | 5 years ago | SteveTheEvans | Table Customization | |
| I have a new mini with which I WAnt to experiment with different ball sizes. I'm not sure which ball bearing material I need to use. Stainless steel is generally not highly attracted to magnets, but this is what most of the ball bearing variety kits are made of. What material (or Stainless steel grade) are the balls that come with the Sisyphus made of, and what other materials/grades will also work? | |||||
| RE: Solution to berm concerns | 3 Relevance | 5 years ago | Bruce | Table Usage | |
| Thanks for sharing your findings. Although it's taken us considerably longer to take the idea of using a "magnetically coupled rake" through the glass seriously, we've recently begun to test this idea out. Couple caveats: Be careful not only with the upper surface of the glass, but also the underside. If the "rake" (in your case a Stainless bar) is pulled up too intensely by the magnet, it can chip / scratch the glass. We are evaluating the proper strength magnet to use (with felt between it and the glass), as well as a rake that is designed to work well without damaging the underside of the glass. Most Stainless alloys are not ferromagnetic (or very weakly so). If you intend to use Stainless, test it with a magnet . Generally, 300 series are non-magnetic; 400 series are. | |||||
| RE: Track corruption on restore -- please add Backup/Restore | 1 Relevance | 4 years ago | Patti | Table Usage | |
| I couldn't resist the lure of the limited edition Stainless table so my current one is about to go to a new home. Thus I would love to back up my existing tracks and playlists and restore them on the new table when it arrives. A search turned up this post. I'm enough of a nerd that I can probably work it out based on the description in this post, but are the backup/restore instructions posted somewhere? It sounds like the process is: - Back up the content directory on the old table to another computer- On the new table, restore the files to a temp directory- Kill the server process- (Back up the content folder, because paranoia)- Replace the existing content folder with my backup- Do something to restart the process, which I'm sure I can work out but if not I can just restart the table Is that correct? | |||||
| RE: Solution to berm concerns | 1 Relevance | 5 years ago | adambrower | Table Usage | |
| I should have made it clear that I apply the magnet from beneath the table. As someone who once experienced a tempered glass table top exploding unbidden, and all by itself, I am well aware of the perils of glass. The rake I use is 1 inch of 400 Stainless 1/4" rod, with a 25lb "handle" magnet. It works a treat. | |||||
| Solution to berm concerns | 1 Relevance | 5 years ago | adambrower | Table Usage | |
| If occasionally the field seems thin toward the berm, rather than trying to craft a rho>1 track that returns some sand to the field, and instead of wrestling with the glass on the 36" table, simply place a small bit of Stainless bar stock on the cloth, and use a ~25lb magnet to manually plow some sand back to the field. I cover the magnet with cheescloth to avoid scratches. (Don't forget to pull the bar stock well clear of the berm when you're done). It only took me 3 months to figure that out! | |||||
| RE: Great tool to smooth the sand | 1 Relevance | 7 years ago | whofan | Table Customization | |
| Search Stainless Steel Scraper/Chopper at Amazon for this item | |||||
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